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One found with joy that the South Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams waxy potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into 2cm cubes
One teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic cloves, prepared and minced
2½cm piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the components on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a container. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.